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70 changes: 33 additions & 37 deletions 3dprinter.md
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# Prusa MK4S and Core One 3D printers
# Prusa MK4s and Core One + 3D printers

The MakerSpace currently has a Prusa MK4S and a Prusa CORE One Printer.
The MakerSpace currently has a Prusa MK4S and a Prusa CORE One + 3D Printer.

These are fast, modern high quality, reliable machinesthat deliver great performance but are also easy to use and set up for beginners with a wealth of support and advice available.

Expand All @@ -19,75 +19,71 @@ You can find material on the Prusa Website about the MK4S and the Core One [http
Please download and read the Prusa introduction manual for safe and reliable printer operation
[https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk3/handbook](https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads/mk4/handbook)

The MK4S and Core One printers are very similar sharing the same electronics, motors and printhead. Their speed and quality is comparable though the CORE One has a tempearature controlled printing chamber that allows heat control when printing more complex engineering filemanets such as ABS, ASA and Nylon.
The MK4 and Core One + printers are very similar sharing the same electronics, motors and printhead. Their speed and quality is comparable though the CORE One + has a tempearature controlled printing chamber that allows heat control when printing more complex engineering filemanets such as ABS and Nylon.

_adapted from Prusa forum induction_

The PRUSA MK4S and Core one are very nice machines, and you will find that they are reliable machines with great print quality. There are thousands of users who use this machine as a workhorse, and you can too.
The PRUSA MK4S and Core one + are very nice machines, and you will find that they are reliable machines with great print quality. There are thousands of users who use these machines as a workhorse, and you can too.

That said, there is a learning curve and people make mistakes. If you are expecting this to be as easy as an inkjet or laser printer, it is not, but it can become that routine once you get over the learning curve.

This is a collection things most discussed on this forum as a reference for someone having problems starting (initial section) or trouble shooting (second section). None of this is “mine” but rather a collection of the advice, solutions and problems that are frequently discussed on this forum. This should be a good place to start looking for your answers. I am in no way affiliated with PRUSA, just a user who climbed this learning curve with the help of many wonderful forum members.
This is a collection of the advice, solutions and problems that are frequently discussed on the Prusa forum. This should be a good place to start looking for your answers.

These hints/step are not to be used instead of thinking. Think about the problem/steps and make sure they make sense to you. This collection is provided in good faith, but you are responsible for your machine. Electricity and heat can hurt you or the machine. Make sure you are comfortable with the steps and your knowledge before jumping in.
These hints/step are not to be used instead of thinking. Think about the problem/steps and make sure they make sense to you. This collection is provided in good faith, but you are responsible for your choices. Electricity and heat can hurt you or the machine. Make sure you are comfortable with the steps and your knowledge before jumping in.

Please watch the introduction video here (Although this is a guide for a much older printer, the overall steps are similar and should give you a good idea of the process of 3D printing)
[https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared](https://youtu.be/JqH41K2vq0g?feature=shared)
Please watch the introduction video here to get a full understanding of 3D printing!
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vFdwz4U1VQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vFdwz4U1VQ)

![overview of Prusa 3d Printer](prusa3dprinter.png)

![overview of Prusa 3d Printer](prusa3dprinter.png)
## Trouble Shooting

### General advice.

1. The first layer is ALL important. Get it right first. See steps listed below. This will prevent a lot of frustration.
2. Print something from the SD card that came with the printer. If it prints fine, and things you slice don’t then you have a slicer issue. If they don’t you have a hardware issue.
1. The first layer is ALL important. Get it right first. It is easier to restart a print right at the start than dealing with spaghetti after 8 hours!
2. Most issues are caused by improper slicer settings, feel free to ask in the makerspace channel on slack if you need advice!
3. Determine if the issue is persistent or intermittent. Try to localize the conditions that cause it. This is the fastest way to get to an answer.
4. Start simple before getting advanced. This is true for material choice, model choice, adding the MMU upgrade.
4. Start simple before getting advanced. Low-Poly and lower detail models are much easier to print and will be easier to slice too.

Print comes loose from the bed during print, causing either spaghetti or a plastic tumor to grow on your extruder.
**Common causes:**

1. Print surface is unclean. Use provided alcohol wipes to remove any finger oil or debris.
2. Model has small footprint on the bed. Add BRIM in your slicer if the model has a flat bottom, and/or a RAFT if it has a curved bottom.
3. A part of the print has “curled” up and caught on the nozzle. Add a BRIM in your slicer if the model has sharp corners to prvent them from lifting.
1. Print bed is not clean - use an alcohol wipe to clean it and retry. Even oil from peoples hands can make adhesion less reliable.
2. Model has small footprint on the bed - Add BRIM in your slicer if the model has a flat bottom, and/or a RAFT if it has a curved bottom.
3. A part of the print has “curled” up and caught on the nozzle - Look at supports or a BRIM in the slicer, and consider increasing bed temperature.

Extruder stops extruding filament. (Works for a while then stops)
**Common causes:**

1. Filament spool is not free to turn creating intermittent friction or binding. (Or filament is not wound well on the roll). Fix filament holder.
2. The nozzle has been clogged with debris. Try unloading and reloading the fillament before manually purging filament.
3. Bad temperature for the filament.
1. Filament spool is not free to turn creating intermittent friction or binding. (Or filament is not wound well on the roll - some cheeper brands or re-fillable filament spools are prone to tangling).
2. The filament being used is not the same as set in the slicer or selected when loading.
3. The printer has clogged with debris - unload, cut, and reload the filament. If it is still having issues then report in makerspace channel on slack.
4. Poor quality on the filament diameter. Measure it with a caliper over a short span. Try a different spool.

Bad surface quality on the final prints.
**Common causes:**

1. Loose belts, report to makerspace channel.
2. Linear axis (X and Y) bearings are binding or jerky (technical term). report to makerspace channel.
3. "Wet" filament creating blobs and bubbles when printing. Dry filament in filament dryer for a few hours or try different filament.
4. Slicer settings. (A topic unto itself). Try different profile, temperatures, retraction, cooling fan, etc.
5. Poor quality on the filament diameter. Measure it with a caliper over a short span. Try a different spool.
1. Slicer settings. (A topic unto itself). Try different temperatures, retraction, cooling fan, etc.
2. Poor quality on the filament diameter. Measure it with a caliper over a short span. Try a different spool.
3. Issues with the machine - ask in makerspace channel if you need assistance.

Print suddenly shifts in X or Y and keeps printing.
**Common causes:**

1. Print came loose from the print bed (see above).
2. Loose belts, report to makerspace channel.
3. Stepper motor not secured properly, report to makerspace channel.
4. Curled print hits the nozzle or PINDA sensor.
5. Binding on the axis - bearings non clean/parallel, report to makerspace.
6. Cat, kid, or ghost bumped the extruder while printing. Punish offending party.
1. A part of the print has “curled” up and caught on the nozzle - Look at supports or a BRIM in the slicer, and consider increasing bed temperature.
2. The print has come loose from the bed (See Above).
3. Cat, kid, or ghost bumped the extruder while printing. Punish offending party.

## Software

There are 1000’s of free and pay tools out there for creating your models, slicing them, and so forth. This is really not the forum for that detailed a discussion, but here are some common ones so you can research them yourself.

### Slicers
### Slicers
Convert .stl files (models) into .gcode commands for your printer. These can make a HUGE difference in your print quality. Most built-in presets are more than good enough for reliable prints, but for advanced control, most slicers have 100s of extra settings and thus a learning curve, but the knowledge is worth it.

Common ones are:
1. [Prusa Slicer](https://www.prusa3d.com/p/prusaslicer/) - The most suitable for the prusa machines with great presets.
2. Bambu Studio
3. Orca Slicer
4. Cura

- Convert .stl files (models) into .gcode commands for your printer. Most have 100s of settings and thus a learning curve, but the knowledge of the control is worth it, and using "Easy" or "Beginner" modes simplifies the options significantly.
- Common ones are: [Prusa Slicer (Highly Recommended)](https://www.prusa3d.com/page/prusaslicer_424/), KISS, Cura, Simplify3D (S3D) [Guide to Prusa Slicer](https://help.prusa3d.com/category/prusaslicer_204)
- There are many Prusa Slicer introduction videos - here is a reasonable one [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=\_kIqMPNQNSw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kIqMPNQNSw)
There are many Prusa Slicer introduction videos - here is a reasonable one [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=\_kIqMPNQNSw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kIqMPNQNSw)

### CAD

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