Revert breaking PRs

[bfops]

Description of Changes

Revert the following PRs that have caused some breakage:

a32cffa76 Finish refactoring out replay (#4850)
d639be0af Replay: some code motion & reuse `ReplayCommittedState` (#4849)
78d6b6f7d Update NativeAOT-LLVM infrastructure to current ABI (#4515)
d5c1738c1 Better module backtraces for panics and whatnot (#577)
6f23b19f3 Wait for database update to become durable (#4846)
81c9eab86 Add `spacetime lock/unlock` to prevent accidental database deletion (#4502)
809aebd7c Move field `replay_table_updated` to `ReplayCommittedState` (#4807)
21b58ef99 Update axum (#2713)
b5cadff7a Extract replay stuff out of `CommittedState`, part 1 (#4804)

I also updated the Python smoketests for breakage introduced in #4502. Reverting that PR caused conflicts, so this fix is more straightforward.

API and ABI breaking changes

Maybe kind of, but we haven't released any of these.

Expected complexity level and risk

1

Testing

Ask @bfops about testing

[jdetter]

Haven't tested this myself but the list makes sense, could you make sure to ping all of the PR authors that they need to open replacement PRs?