Axis Twist Compensation

Axis Twist Compensation

This guide fixes the single most common Ender-3 V3 KE first-layer complaint: one side squished, the other side lifting — and bed mesh doesn't help. If you've re-levelled, re-meshed, and tweaked Z-offset and it still looks wrong from left to right, you're in the right place.

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Will this help me?

Yes, if: your first layer is inconsistent left-to-right — one side too low, the other too high — even though the bed is clean and not visibly warped, and bed mesh hasn't solved it.

Probably not the whole story, if: the bed physically rocks (gently push each corner — any play?), or one specific spot is dramatically high/low. Fix loose hardware first, then come back.

Why this happens

Your printer probes the bed before each print to build a height map (a bed mesh) and follows it with Z corrections. The probe sits a couple of centimetres behind the nozzle. Here's the catch: the X-axis bar twists by a tiny fraction of a degree as it moves left to right. That twist tilts the probe just enough that the height it measures isn't what the nozzle will actually print at. The bed mesh faithfully records this wrong number — so no amount of re-meshing fixes it.

Axis Twist Compensation measures that error at five points across the bed and corrects it, so the probe finally tells the truth.

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Before you start

• ⏱️ Time: about 15–20 minutes.
• 🧰 You need: the printer on your network and a sheet of paper. No tools, no disassembly.
• ↩️ Safe to try: fully reversible — see Undoing it.

⚠️ These changes live in the printer's system files. A Creality firmware update will erase them. Re-run the OpenKE installer afterwards and they come back — bookmark this page.

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Step 1 — Make sure the mod is installed

The OpenKE installer sets this up for you during the print-quality mods step. To check, open the Tune tab on the screen — if you see an Axis Twist entry, you're good. Jump to Step 2.

If you don't see it, re-run the installer and answer Y at the print-quality mods prompt. It's safe to re-run on an existing install.

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Step 2 — Calibrate (the 5-point paper test)

You only need to do this once per printer lifetime, unless you change the X gantry hardware.

Option A — from the screen (easiest)

Open Tune → Axis Twist on the printer screen. You'll see an intro screen explaining the same paper test described above, confirming homing and mesh-clearing happen automatically — tap the green Start Calibration button to begin. The wizard then walks you through the 5 points on the screen itself — no browser needed.

Option B — from the Klipper console (Mainsail/Fluidd)

Make sure the nozzle tip is clean (no plastic blob — wipe it on a paper towel at temperature, then let it cool). Then in the console:

BED_MESH_CLEAR
AXIS_TWIST_COMPENSATION_CALIBRATE SAMPLE_COUNT=5

The printer probes, then moves the nozzle to the first of 5 spots across the bed. A small "Manual Probe" box appears. At each spot:

1. The nozzle starts about 5 mm up. Lower it using the step buttons (or TESTZ Z=-1, then smaller increments).
2. Slide a sheet of paper under the nozzle and keep lowering in small steps (-0.1, -0.05, -0.01) until you feel light drag — the same feel as setting Z-offset.
3. Tap ACCEPT. The nozzle lifts and moves to the next spot.

🎯 The one trick that matters: use the same paper drag feel at all 5 points. The tool only cares about the difference between spots, so consistency is everything.

After the 5th point, save permanently:

SAVE_CONFIG

Klipper restarts.

After either option — re-mesh before your next print

Your existing bed mesh was measured with the old, un-corrected probe readings — it needs to be redone now that the probe tells the truth. Re-run your bed mesh (BED_MESH_CALIBRATE, or Tune → Bed Mesh → Calibrate on the screen). Skip this if you're using KAMP's ADAPTIVE_BED_MESH_CALIBRATE in your slicer start G-code — that already re-meshes fresh at the start of every print.

Then run a first-layer test that spans the full width — the left-right unevenness should be gone.

Small note: if the overall first-layer height feels slightly different after calibration, just nudge your Z-offset as usual. Twist is fixed; this is just fine-tuning.

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Undoing it

The easiest path is the uninstaller — it removes the module and config and tells you how to restore probe.py. By hand:

cp -a /usr/data/guppyify-backup/probe.py.bak /usr/share/klipper/klippy/extras/probe.py
rm /usr/share/klipper/klippy/extras/axis_twist_compensation.py
rm /usr/data/printer_data/config/GuppyScreen/axis_twist_compensation.cfg

Then delete the saved [axis_twist_compensation] block (if any) from printer.cfg and run FIRMWARE_RESTART.

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If the installer skipped the probe patch

The installer patches probe.py automatically, but deliberately skips if your firmware's file looks different than expected — better to skip than half-apply. If you see STOP in the install log, do the one edit by hand:

1. Open /usr/share/klipper/klippy/extras/probe.py.
2. Find the function def _probe and, just before its return epos[:3] line, insert:

        axis_twist_compensation = self.printer.lookup_object(
            'axis_twist_compensation', None)
        if axis_twist_compensation is not None:
            epos[2] += axis_twist_compensation.get_z_compensation_value(pos)

3. Save, then FIRMWARE_RESTART. Carry on to the calibration above.

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After a Creality firmware update

A Creality firmware update wipes these Klipper-side files. Getting back takes 2 minutes:

1. Re-run the installer and answer Y at the print-quality mods prompt.
2. Re-run the calibration (5-point paper test above) and SAVE_CONFIG — the saved correction is cleared by the firmware update.

Next: Adaptive Meshing (KAMP) — mesh only the area your print actually uses, plus an automatic purge line.