General Build Guide: REDUX #6
Replies: 13 comments 21 replies
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I've just ordered many of the parts I need to build this, and I'm hopeful this guide is fleshed out as the parts begin to arrive! |
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Rather than me go through a bunch of steps, just ask when you get stuck, and I will anwser that in some detail, then others can use this information. I'm trying to do a series of shorts on YouTube as well, as I just don't have time to do a full build video, it takes so much time to do it properly, and I just don't have that much time to spend on it. |
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Hi there. I'm almost done printing a REDUX case. I had some questions about the fan mount. At first I was confused on if you needed to print two of the pieces labelled "fan mount." If you look at it from the right angle or look at specific pictures you have posted here it's more obvious, but definitely wasn't obvious to me at first how it works. I see now that you use fan screws to secure one of them to either side of a set of two fans. There's a lot of conflicting information out there about how you should modify the stock cooler, whether 1 or 2 fans is better, etc. I opened up my fins only in the center of the heatsink to use that single Arctic P12 pro static pressure fan everyone recommends: 
I just printed this random mount that I found temporarily while getting things set up and rigged it up in a spare ATX case to get going. Now that I'm printing this case though, I see I'll have to take a different approach. I used one of these to pry up the fins: https://www.printables.com/model/1282906-bc-250-scooper It worked okay, but the tines all eventually snapped off and I finished the rest with plastic spudgers from my ifixit kit. I was a little rough with it, but I get good temps. It hovers around 70C when gaming with 40CU unlock enabled. I see the method you're using uses scissors to literally rip off the bent part of the fin... but I can't really do that at this point with my center section. Is it okay if I just print a few more of those "scooper" tools and do the same thing I did with the center section? Also, is the Arctic P12 Pro okay to use here, or should I install Airflow fans? I have some other 120mm airflow fans that I could use. |
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Those scooer tools suck, I tried one once, it was terrible, peeling them like opening a can of sardines is the best method, you cvan still peel what you have closed. All the conflictting data from everyone is not relivent to my caes, specially the REDUX, I have done testing, quite a bit to be honest, using a FLIR camera and external thermal sensors, along with db meter for all of my testing and designing, so ignore what others are saying about 1 versus 2 fans, that is a moot arguement for my case, its designed for 2 fans, and they must blow inwards, and the fans "should" be the P12 Pro CO PST's or something equivilant. I recommend the P12 Pro CO PST fans, regardless, these are the best bang for the buck on the market, you can use other fans, but the P12 Pro's were the best, you can buy 2 of these for less than 1 Noctua fan, and the Noctua fans are not as good, as theyu just lack the RPM to compete in the performance area, the P12's will run at 60% while normal gaming if you have tuned the system right, but can ramp up to high speeds when needed, like for shader compiling or when running one of those games using that crap game engine (UE5), Idle the fans should drop right down to 20%, effectivly silent. Below are some images of how the fan mount attaches to the board, there is a gap between them and the fin stack, so if you bend or peel, this mount will still fit, the air flow will cool the entire finstack and it will cool the NVME drive as well, and when inside the REDUX case, close to 80% of the airflow the leaves the case, will rush over the VRAM backplate, keeping it cool as well. These are old photos, as I have updated the design, but they still install the same, when I pull my REDUX down, I will do a short video on assembling and sliding onto the BC250, which is done from the IO side. 
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When I was building the v1 case back in Jan/Feb I used a version of the fan mount for the scooped fins. The fins are a PITA to open with either method. I had to trim every fin after scooping and I've had to trim about half of them after peeling. But I had already scooped the center of mine before I found your case. Do any of the fan mounts for the Redux fit the slightly higher fin-stack of scooped fins? |
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Its a none issue with REDUX, there is plenty of clearance between the fin stack and the fans, the fan mount will fit, bent or peeled. |
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@NexGen-3D-Printing Did you experiment with having a gap between the two fans? I saw someone (in some random yt video) say that a small gap was better than having them together, to allow the air to also exit in the middle. I'm still waiting for my board so I haven't decided what to do yet |
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I need to replace my thermal pads. I saw you mention 1.5mm, any recommendations on what size and how much thermal pad is needed for the whole board? |
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This kit is dirt cheap and has more than enough to the entire board with plent left over for other things: https://link.amazon/B0255nRvl The 2mm one is good to pack behind the APU between the PCB and Backplate. |
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Cheers for your work on this project, has been fun to work on making one. Quick question. I'm a peanut and went and printed the case and fan mounts in PETG. Will I get away with testing it with this before I go again with PETG-CF now that I have RTFM? Bit of a 3d printing noob here but having a blast so far. |
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You probably wont need to use PETG-CF, its only slightly higher heat resistance, you probably wont have any issues with standard PETG, it clamps to the back plate, and this shouldnt get hot enough to cause any issues, as long as the fans are operational, but if they stop, then it will make PETG soft, PETG-CF wont fix that either, I make my fan mounts from PET-CF, which is not the same thing as PETG-CF. As long as the fans are on even at 20% when the system is running, I don't see PETG going all melty on you, not sure how it will go over a number of years, but if you dismantle to clean it every now and then, you can check the condition, if they are deforming from heat, then reprint in PET-CF or ABS. |
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Thanks heaps, I'll give it a crack with the PETG to test it out and redo it when I get some PET-CF for the fans. I think I will need an enclosure before I try any ABS stuff though, I have the kit, just haven't printed the bits for it yet. |
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FYI, PET-CF can be printed with an open printer, and IMO is better than ABS, and its easier to print, it just needs drying at 80C for 8 to 10hrs before using it. This stuff is pretty good: https://link.amazon/B0igtmIlf |
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Hello wanted to check what the difference is between the MM fan mounts and standard? |
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MM = Multi Material, its for multi colour printing, if you don't have a machine capable of multi colour, then print the other one. |
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I've searched quite a bit but couldn't find a clear answer. Is it posted anywhere showing which holes need the threaded inserts? I'm assuming its the 16 holes on the sides of the front and back pieces of the case? Also, what screws should I be using to attach the FSP500-30AS mount to the back case? I know I'm probably overthinking this, but didn't want to strip anything out. |
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The screws for the PSU are standard computer case screws, most PSU come with them, but the FSP doesn't, if you don't have any of these lying around, they are Imperial #6-32 UNC, you can pick some up from Amazon -> https://link.amazon/B0bg8d6RW Threaded inserts go into the casing, 6 on the top, 6 on the bottom, and 2 on each side, on the newest case, there is also one right above the USB ports for the USB adaptor cover, this one is optional, and inside there is room for three more, these are for the Mosfet Party Boards, also optional, those ones need melting in but I'm doing an small update to the front case section to rectify this, so they can be torqued into place like all the others. |
@NexGen-3D-Printing Unfortunately I don't have a time to buy from ali insert threads , on my local market can't find M33.5мм4.6мм*6мм, can i use the same like on picture? 4.6 it is outer diameter, 6 length, 3.5?? Than you for your great project and efforts. |
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Maybe a dumb question but would this APEVIA ITX-PFC500W flex power supply work in the redux case? |
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Long winded post here, but lots of important PSU information inside :) Yes, this Apevia is on the list, its a FLEX-ATX, yes they work but they're rubbish just be warned, two out of the three I purchased came with steel wiring, only one had copper, or some sort of non magnetic alloy wiring, the fans are noisy, they run hot, inside looks like a child with two left hands and all thumbs assembled it, and my guess is they are 80+ Rust rated :) and I can get them to go into OCP at 380 to 400w, not anywhere near 500w. My recommendation, is get the FSP500-30AS from the seller on ebay if you can, just offer $10 to $15 USD for it, even if your outside the USA, its not much more than buying one of these piles of trash from Ali, next recommendation is the Metalfish 500w, but because it has become popular, along with this BC-250 SBC, the sellers on Aliexpress are pretty much scalping you for it now, its far more expensive now that it was 6 months ago. I have all of these PSU, FSP500, Metalfish 500w and 600w, 3 x Apevia's, 2 x Skywdlewhatevers and an LOP-600. The LOP-600, is amazing, it has the best efficiency over all of these, but its dangerous and not practical as it has no standby IMO, the next is the FSP500-30AS it's not far behind on efficiency, its safe as its enclosed, it has thick copper wiring, 80+ Platinum rated, has standby, its well priced, the fan is super quiet, it runs cool, is more compact than all of the others, except for the LOP-600. Another thing to watch out for, with those El Cheapo FLX PSU's, is some are not single rail, so power is split, the FSP500, the Metalfish 500 and the LOP-400/500/600 can all punch out, their max wattage rating out the 12v rail, if you look at the image you posted, its only 350w on the 12v rail, which is the only one, you are going to use. I look at this way, if I was going to build even a budget gaming PC, I would be making sure I get a quality name brand platinum rated PSU, I would rather have a quality 600 or 750w over a rubbish 1000w, all of my machines, including rack servers, all run high quality PSU I purchased maybe 6 to 8 yrs ago, an they are all perfect, some of them I had running at 90% of there rating for a year solid, 36 GPU's stacked up in racks, all old ATI Tahiti cards, and those PSU are still running now, so I wouldn't skimp to hard on that part. If you don't plan to overclocking or plan to undervolt a little and unlock the CU's, then you can get away with a Metalfish 300w, or the little LOP-300, I would go those over the El Cheapo's personally. Also, maybe look into the Dell/HP/Lenovo Flex Server PSU's, I actually want to get one to see what their like, but most that use them say their great, I reckon the fan will need swapping out or a resistor fitted, my concern is some of these may shutdown if they detect the fan not functioning correctly or as expected, I had some EMC storage arrays that would do this when I added some resistors to shut the Dyson Vacuum Cleaner level noisy fans up, only some of the PSU did, and some were fine with it, so it can be a roll of the dice. |
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Fantastic response, I wasn’t aware of the quality, but the price makes sense, that definitely changes my outlook, I may look into the dell/hp/lenovo and if I can get one and provide results. Thank you! |
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I've made a lot of progress putting this together but I'm not sure how to wire the generic latching switch from the BOM to the FSP500-30AS. I see someone's made a board to simplify this process but it's out of stock, and so I need to fall back on the normal steps to wire the switch to bridge ps_on, but I can't figure out how to do it. |
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OK, figured this out and made a solid connector. 
The wire colors attached to the switches differ, so disconnect the blue adapter from the switch and note the locations of the 1/2/C/NC/NO pins. A 2x4 JRN011 fits cleanly on the left side (2x4) of this plug, and you can get away with only using those pins. 2x4 coordinates: Get a crimper and a JRN011 connector kit and wire the switch to a receptacle (male pins, female plastic)
and you'll get a plug you can attach directly the FSP500 |
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NO and C around the wrong way, but doesn't really matter, same result. Interesting that the 8 Pin socket can fit, some could just buy a female 8 Pin EPS to 8 PIN PCI-E adaptor as there is plenty of those around, chop the PCI-E off and wire in the switch to that. 
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Its dead easy to wire up bud, take a photo of the wire loom for your switch as the wire colours change, I just need to see your wire colour and which pin/location it is on the plug. |
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This might be me being dumb, but how exactly is the FLX-FSP Mount for the FSP500-30AS power supply supposed to be attached to the case? I have no problem with attaching the bracket mount to the power supply, but I'm confused on which screws to use to attach the rest of the assembly to the main case. The M3 inserts and screws I have are too small to attach to the case. Do I need longer ones? |
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Use some 20mm long bolts, there is thread moulded into the case or you can use some heat set threaded inserts, just dont use the flanged ones, use normal ones, I have just made a change to the rear section to remove the threaded insert part and made the moulded thread all the way, so you can use 14mm bolts instead. |
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This case is incredible and convinced me to pull the trigger on getting a BC250 :) Does the redux case have room underneath the RAM backplate to add an additional large heatsink next to the clamping brace (or instead of the clamping brace)? |
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Yes you can, but you 100% do not need too, the ram back plate is cooled by air flow from the 120mm fans, around 80% of the air as it leaves the case, blows over the back plate, you will struggle to see it climb above 55C, so sticking heat sinks on it will have a Placebo effect at best. People that talk about ram temps, are either testing the board on the bench outside of my case, or are testing in some other case, the REDUX design takes cooling the entire board into account, including the SSD. |
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I couldn't find a good guide so I made a video of me assembling the BC-250 in a redux case. Hope it helps! |
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I just left a comment on your video :) I'm working on build guides at the moment, but the Pro video will be up first as its the hardest one to build. |
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When importing parts into your slicer, please select no when it insists that the measurements are incorrect, if you see a message similar to this, select "No": 
When you your slicer says something like this, select yes: 
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Im so glad this discussion is here. There is so much useful information in these comments. Can't wait for the full guide. |
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All this info is out there, has been there for nearly 6 months, but its scattered and a large portion is locked up in that Discord, I've never really like Discord personally, I don't see the big attraction, and it hides everything, I prefer the information to open for all to see it, you can then choose to interact or just consume, and putting it all in one place just makes better sense to me, if at some point down the line I move on, someone can just fork my work and keep it active. |
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For the REDUX Case:
Prep the BC-250 by peeling the fin stack open, recommend removing it from the BC-250 to do the job though, you can remove it after open the finstack, this is required, as in some cases, metal can fall and get trapped under it, causing the magic smoke to escape :)
Use a pair of scissors, and a piece of wood or some thick plastic like I did, and start from the IO side, and peel the fin open, 1 at a time all the way across, best to leave 1 or two on the sides closed to give the finstack some strength.
You also need to remove the metal brackets from both ends of the board:
I also recommend replacing the thermal interface material with either PTM7950 or Arctic MX7, thermal pads are optional, 1.5mm thick are recommended.
More to come......
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