WIKI M5Stack NanoC6 for Mitsubishi HP working over either Thread or Wifi6

[DarkDimius]

I want to share my successful implementation in Home Assistant, working over either Thread or Wifi6 using M5Stack NanoC6

The nice cable is created by combining https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/jst-sales-america-inc/PAP-05V-S/759977 and https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/seeed-technology-co-ltd/110990036/5482563

Below you can find a working ESPHome config (as of 2025.6.3). As written, it works over thread with remote temperature transmitted from a remote home assistant sensor, but you can see commented out configuration that can be used to make it work over wifi or without a remote sensor

substitutions:
  name: m5nanoc6-master-ac
  friendly_name: Master Bed AC
  remote_temp_sensor: sensor.master_bed_apollo_msr2_temperature

esphome:
  name: ${name}
  friendly_name: ${friendly_name}
  on_boot:
    priority: 200
    then:
      - delay: 30s
      - light.turn_off:
          id: rgb_led

esp32:
  board: esp32-c6-devkitc-1
  flash_size: 4MB
  framework:
    type: esp-idf

# Enable logging
logger:
  level: INFO
  logs:
    CN105Climate: WARN
    climate: WARN
    sensor: WARN
    WRITE : WARN
    READ : WARN

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
  encryption:
    key: !secret encryption_key

ota:
  - platform: esphome
    password: !secret ota_password

# wifi:
#   ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
#   password: !secret wifi_password

#   # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
#   ap:
#      ssid: "${friendly_name} Fallback Hotspot"
#      password: !secret wifi_fallback_password

# captive_portal:


network:
  enable_ipv6: true

openthread:
  tlv: !secret thread_tlv
  # device_type: FTD

uart:
  id: HP_UART
  baud_rate: 2400
  tx_pin: GPIO1
  rx_pin: GPIO2

# External component reference
external_components:
  - source: github://echavet/MitsubishiCN105ESPHome

# Climate entity configuration
climate:
  - platform: cn105
    id: hp
    name: ${friendly_name}
    icon: mdi:heat-pump
    visual:
      min_temperature: 15
      max_temperature: 31
      temperature_step:
        target_temperature: 0.5
        current_temperature: 0.1

    remote_temperature_timeout: 30min
    debounce_delay : 100ms
    update_interval: 4s

    compressor_frequency_sensor:
      name: ${name} Compressor Frequency
      entity_category: diagnostic
      disabled_by_default: false # works
    vertical_vane_select:
      name: ${name} Vertical Vane  
      disabled_by_default: false # works
    stage_sensor:
      name: Stage or Fan state
      entity_category: diagnostic
      disabled_by_default: false # works
    sub_mode_sensor:
      name: Sub Mode
      entity_category: diagnostic
      disabled_by_default: false # works
    auto_sub_mode_sensor:
      name: Auto Mode
      entity_category: diagnostic
      disabled_by_default: false # works


# below taken from https://github.com/bogorad/m5stack-m5NanoC6-esphome/blob/main/packages/generic_m5stack-nano-c6.yaml combined with https://github.com/yoziru/esphome-m5-btproxy/tree/main


### IR transmitter stopped working 2025/02
# remote_transmitter:
#   pin: GPIO3
#   # Infrared remotes use a 50% carrier signal
#   carrier_duty_percent: 50%
#   # rmt_channel: 1

light:
  - platform: esp32_rmt_led_strip
    rgb_order: GRB
    pin: GPIO20
    num_leds: 1
    # rmt_channel: 0 ### this stopped working 2025/02
    chipset: WS2812
    is_rgbw: true
    restore_mode: ALWAYS_ON # light is on during boot. Will be turned off after 30s delay
    id: rgb_led
    name: "Light"
    icon: "mdi:led-outline"
    power_supply: rgbpwr
    effects:
      - random:
      - flicker:
      - addressable_rainbow:

power_supply:
  - id: 'rgbpwr'
    enable_on_boot: true
    pin: GPIO19
    enable_time: 10ms
    keep_on_time: 10ms

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    pin: GPIO7
    name: "on board LED"

sensor:
  - platform: homeassistant
    name: "Remote Temperature Sensor"
    entity_id: ${remote_temp_sensor} # Replace with your HomeAssistant remote sensor entity id, or include in substitutions
    internal: false # doesn't mean internal temp sensor in this case - it is an ESPHome saying "is this sensor fully internal to the ESPHome device? Or should I show it to HomeAssistant?" TRUE would mean that the device won't send the value to HomeAssistant. FALSE means it sends the value to HomeAssistant, but the entity is disabled by default. 
    disabled_by_default: true
    device_class: temperature
    state_class: measurement
    unit_of_measurement: "°C"
    filters:
    # Uncomment the lambda line to convert F to C on incoming temperature
    #  - lambda: return (x - 32) * (5.0/9.0);
      - clamp: # Limits values to range accepted by Mitsubishi units
          min_value: 1
          max_value: 40
          ignore_out_of_range: true
      - throttle: 30s
    on_value:
      then:
        - logger.log:
            level: WARN
            format: "Remote temperature received from HA: %.1f C"
            args: [ 'x' ]
        - lambda: 'id(hp).set_remote_temperature(x);'
#   - platform: wifi_signal
#     name: "WiFi Signal"
#     update_interval: 60s
  - platform: uptime
    name: Uptime
    id: sys_uptime
    update_interval: 60s

  - platform: internal_temperature
    name: "ESP Temperature"
    id: sys_esp_temperature

button:
  - platform: restart
    icon: mdi:power-cycle
    name: "ESP Reboot"
  # - platform: safe_mode
  #   name: "Safe Mode Boot"
  #   entity_category: diagnostic
  #   id: safe_mode_boot_button
  # - platform: factory_reset
  #   name: "Restart with Factory Default Settings"
  #   entity_category: "diagnostic"


text_sensor:
  # - platform: wifi_info
  #   ip_address:
  #     name: "My IP Address"
  #     id: wifi_ip_address
  #   mac_address:
  #     name: "My Mac Wifi Address"
  #     id: wifi_mac_address
  #   ssid:
  #     name: "Connected SSID"
  #     id: wifi_connected_ssid
  #   bssid:
  #     name: "Connected BSSID"
  #     id: wifi_connected_bssid
  #   dns_address:
  #     name: "DNS Address"
  #     id: wifi_dns_address
  - platform: openthread_info
    ip_address:
      name: "Off-mesh routable IP Address"
    channel:
      name: "Channel"
    role:
      name: "Device Role"
    rloc16:
      name: "RLOC16"
    ext_addr:
      name: "Extended Address"
    eui64:
      name: "EUI64"
    network_name:
      name: "Network Name"
    # network_key:
    #   name: "Network Key"
    pan_id:
      name: "PAN ID"
    ext_pan_id:
      name: "Extended PAN ID"
  - platform: version
    name: Version
    hide_timestamp: true
    disabled_by_default: false
    icon: mdi:new-box
    entity_category: diagnostic

# Configuration of M5Stack NanoC6 onboard onboard button
binary_sensor:
  - platform: status
    name: Online
    id: ink_ha_connected
  - platform: gpio
    name: Button
    entity_category: diagnostic
    pin:
      number: GPIO9
      inverted: true
      mode:
        input: true
        pullup: true
    filters:
      - delayed_off: 10ms
    on_press:
      then:
        - logger.log: Button Pressed
    
time:
  - platform: homeassistant
    id: homeassistant_time

[iandees]

I just got the parts to put this together from DigiKey. One bit that might be helpful to others: you can use a tweezers or other small pokey tool to lift the flaps up on the Grove connector and pull the metal terminal out of the plastic connector pretty easily. Then you can shove that same metal terminal back into the 5 pin plastic connector.

[robdraaijer]

I'm also running this set up. If you get unbuckled grove cables you can directly insert those on the CN105 connector after cutting one of the plastic guides of with a knife.

[nocodeman55]

Thanks for posting your config and picture of your hardware setup. That M5 is a real nice peace of kit for 5 USD.

What is the benefit of using Thread rather than Wifi in this/your setup?

[robdraaijer]

I'm looking to use thread for improved BLE/Thread coexistence. I'm running bluetooth proxies on all of my AC's for forwarding BLE temperature sensor readings. Theoretically BLE/Thread coexistence should work better than BLE/Wifi coexistence due to the more efficient nature of the Thread protocol. I'll report my experiences once i get around to testing this.

[DarkDimius]

What is the benefit of using Thread rather than Wifi in this/your setup?

Thread networks become more reliable with size, wifi networks become less reliable with size.

• Thread is a mesh network and having more hardwired Full Thread Devices that can act as routers makes it better. Multiple of my AC heads now are now elected as thread routers and thus improve coverage.
• Wifi networks become worse the more devices are there on it, and even more so if there are legacy devices that do not support recent generations of wifi
• in my case, I have 4 thread border routers, some of which are wired. Thread network via ipv6 auto-heals very quickly(~100ms via multipe routes via router advertisement), whereas wifi has multiple single points of failure(single access point connected to a single switch, minutes to heal)
• combining all above, i have not had a thread network outage in last 6 month other than few cases where I manually turned off power for entire house including UPS-es to test cold start. Wifi has intermittent issues a couple times a week. Humans sometimes notice these.

I'm also increasingly getting more and more sensors and I really like how low power thread is for sensors - I'm 3 years in and had not had to change a single battery yet.

Additionally in my case, I have different security profile/firewall rules for my ipv6 network(that has neither internet ingress or egress) and my ipv4 networks. I do not expect to have ipv6 only wifi devices.

[nocodeman55]

Your network seems really modern and robust. Great work!

[jimmy-zhening-luo]

Do you have any pointers on how I can inspect whether my Thread network is running IPv6, and if not how I can configure it to use IPv6?

I am about to complete the same setup you are using (testing both your cable construction and the clipped unbuckled Grove cable method), and am trying to decide between Thread and Wi-Fi.

On one hand I am actively growing my Thread network, on the other hand I have a deep distrust of Thread — both due to (1) the opacity surrounding their governance and interests (as an ex-Microsoft/Google standards guy myself) and the designed inscrutability of the network itself, and (2) the culture "they" (who's they? I wish I knew) have conveniently inculcated to stifle curiosity and dissent: nearly any legitimate question I see about Thread meets dozens of parroted responses, "The whole point is to not inspect it", "Thread big better, Wi-Fi big badder", "It do da auto-heal". I'd like to understand who owns Thread, what the licensing and certification scheme is, what it means by "open standard", who has corporate interests in its steering, etc. But I'd settle for knowing how to know if I am doing Thread "right" or not. Because my experience has been a mixed bag with respect to responsiveness and connectivity, compared to Wi-Fi which is a known and manageable quantity, and I can also claim that I have done such a good job operating it that it is free of drop-offs for over a year at a time.

[jimmy-zhening-luo]

Thanks for sharing your setup and very detailed / robust YAML.

[DarkDimius]

Do you have any pointers on how I can inspect whether my Thread network is running IPv6, and if not how I can configure it to use IPv6?

At it's core, Thread is IPv6 only. I found last 30 minutes of the this video https://youtu.be/rEugjMk-4II?t=7618 a year ago particularly helpful.

[disruptivepatternmaterial]

Yeah thread is solving a problem that doesnt really exist, other than maybe power consumption. All this nonsense about wifi and scale and number of devices, etc... it will be a problem when every brick in your house is IoT'ed and you need 50000 connections. But who wants all that?

If and when it all sorts out to mean an open network that I can control, maintain, monitor, filter, and data cleanse I might be interested.

As I have mentioned I have hundreds and hundreds of thing in my house in IP/wifi/IoT and filter the heck out of them. I MiTM most of it and even spoof data. I am working on BLE and MiTM de-clouding now to keep even more in my hands.

That said, I like that people are pushing the envelope. But walk carefully. Newer isn't better...trusting your frozen pipes to thread when you look at what happens with thread stuff as simple as outlets and lamps that fail to respond. Be careful.

[Motya-HA]

Wow! This is such an awesome-looking project.

I’m in the process of building a new house and I’m tentatively planning for a 5–6 zone Mitsubishi mini split zones. I don’t want to use any cloud connections in my future Home Assistant (HA) setup—currently, the only cloud-dependent devices I have are a Carrier Infinity HVAC system (with their proprietary communicating thermostat) and Alexa. I plan to avoid this in my new house.

I really like everything about your project. My only concern is Thread—I’ve had only bad experiences with it. Granted, I have an iPhone (which doesn’t help), but even so: my Apple TVs are listed as Border Routers, but I can never make them the preferred Thread network. I’ve tried other options like the Connect ZBT-1 and Aqara Hub M3, but I keep running into Thread network stability issues. Every time I try to add a new device, it’s a gamble. Most of the time, I end up connecting Matter devices over Thread to Apple HomeKit first, then sharing them to HA

Thanks in advance

[ViperScull]

Thanks for the project. My only concern is that nobody is using a logic level adapter between the Rx and Tx of the Mitsubishi Unit and the ESP chip and viceversa, where Espressif says that the maximum level of the ESP32 pins is 3,6V. I know it works, but still, the safest option would be to regulate the 5v of the data pins to 3.3V

[somlefant]

I am utilising a logic level converter in my setup. Remember reading about it in multiple guides online.

…

On Thu, 7 Aug 2025, 10:28 ViperScull, ***@***.***> wrote: Thanks for the project. My only concern is that nobody is using a logic level adapter between the Rx and Tx of the Mitsubishi Unit and the ESP chip and viceversa, where Espressif says that the maximum level of the ESP32 pins is 3,6V. I know it works, but still, the safest option would be to regulate the 5v of the data pins to 3.3V — Reply to this email directly, view it on GitHub <#340 (comment)>, or unsubscribe <https://github.com/notifications/unsubscribe-auth/BOE5W4HJUMEX2OD35KB7Q533MME3DAVCNFSM6AAAAACA4UP4EGVHI2DSMVQWIX3LMV43URDJONRXK43TNFXW4Q3PNVWWK3TUHMYTIMBTGEZDIOA> . You are receiving this because you are subscribed to this thread.Message ID: <echavet/MitsubishiCN105ESPHome/repo-discussions/340/comments/14031248 @github.com>

[Motya-HA]

@ViperScull
Clarification question - how do you connect Nano6C to 3.3V - it has only 4 pins: GND, 5V, Rx and TX

1 | Yellow | IO2 | GPIO2 (Data/Signal line 1)
2 | White | IO1 | GPIO1 (Data/Signal line 2)
3 | Red | 5V | Power supply (5V output)
4 | Black | GND | Ground

[martinkura-svk]

After reading the discussion above, I’m still not sure how the wiring should actually be done. I’m still waiting for my Atom NanoC6 to arrive, so I don’t know whether the board exposes a 3.3 V pin anywhere.

Could someone clarify which exact level shifter is needed, and how to wire everything if the Grove connector only provides GND, 5 V, RX and TX?
Since the NanoC6’s UART operates at 3.3 V, how should I correctly connect it to a 5 V device through a level shifter, and where should the 3.3 V for the LV side come from if the NanoC6 doesn’t offer a 3.3 V pin? Thanks.

[ViperScull]

After reading the discussion above, I’m still not sure how the wiring should actually be done. I’m still waiting for my Atom NanoC6 to arrive, so I don’t know whether the board exposes a 3.3 V pin anywhere.

Could someone clarify which exact level shifter is needed, and how to wire everything if the Grove connector only provides GND, 5 V, RX and TX? Since the NanoC6’s UART operates at 3.3 V, how should I correctly connect it to a 5 V device through a level shifter, and where should the 3.3 V for the LV side come from if the NanoC6 doesn’t offer a 3.3 V pin? Thanks.

You have 2 options.
Connect directly nanoC6 to the cn105 and use the 5V signals for GPIO. It does work, many people use it like that, and it'd be probably fine.
Or do it the safest way, use a regulator to obtain 3.3V, and use that voltage and the TV from the CN105 for a level shifter for the GPIO. You'd still power the nano C6 with 5V

[devzzm]

After reading the discussion above, I’m still not sure how the wiring should actually be done. I’m still waiting for my Atom NanoC6 to arrive, so I don’t know whether the board exposes a 3.3 V pin anywhere.

Could someone clarify which exact level shifter is needed, and how to wire everything if the Grove connector only provides GND, 5 V, RX and TX? Since the NanoC6’s UART operates at 3.3 V, how should I correctly connect it to a 5 V device through a level shifter, and where should the 3.3 V for the LV side come from if the NanoC6 doesn’t offer a 3.3 V pin? Thanks.

Did you figure this out? I'm looking to use a level shifter because I want to use a splitter and keep my comfort cloud module as well. I was looking at SparkFun (https://www.amazon.com/SparkFun-12009-Logic-Converter-Bi-Directional/dp/B088FYQJYZ)

[pdurys]

After reading the discussion above, I’m still not sure how the wiring should actually be done. I’m still waiting for my Atom NanoC6 to arrive, so I don’t know whether the board exposes a 3.3 V pin anywhere.

Could someone clarify which exact level shifter is needed, and how to wire everything if the Grove connector only provides GND, 5 V, RX and TX? Since the NanoC6’s UART operates at 3.3 V, how should I correctly connect it to a 5 V device through a level shifter, and where should the 3.3 V for the LV side come from if the NanoC6 doesn’t offer a 3.3 V pin? Thanks.

It might be still interesting for others.
Signal Level shifter is not needed when connect NanoC6 from its Grove connector to CN105 on the Mitsubishi PCBs
I have done the same modification and it works as expected. My unit is MSZ-HR25. I would say it was the smoothest mod I ever done.

One tiny thing. Do not forget to put NanoC6 into Download mode. Instructions in the link below.

About M5Stack NanoC6 - docs are here:
https://docs.m5stack.com/en/core/M5[NanoC6](https://docs.m5stack.com/en/core/M5NanoC6)
There is electronic schematic which shows what is connected where.

It is quite safe to use 5V and GND from Grove connector to power up and run NanoC6 module. But do not touch 12V connector (1) from CN105. The same is valid for other modules from M5Stack range, but check module docs.

[samuelthng]

Not sure why, but I noticed when I enabled IPv6 for testing Thread on the NanoC6, it seemed to spike the ESP's temperature up to 70°C.

Wanted to check if anyone see similar trends or if my unit is faulty.

Without IPv6 (wifi only), temps drop back down to around 50°C.

[DarkDimius]

below you can see 4 different nanoC6 installed in 4 different AC heads, all running over thread and all working as thread routers(which means they help extend the mesh and thus i expect they do more processing compared to them being a leaf node).
As you can see all of them have vastly different temperatures, although none of them reach as high as 70c. Interestingly, the one with lower temperature are in the least dense part of my thread network and the ones with highest temperature is in the most dense.

That said, I would not worry about temperature reaching 70c. The spec indicates that c6 can operate at ambient temperature of 105c(page 63).

[samuelthng]

Hey thank you for the detailed reply, and so quickly too! 🙏🏻

[Gabba35]

Anyone reckon it would be possible to use Zigbee? It would help extend my network as a bonus!

[disruptivepatternmaterial]

I've been doing this for years. I am one of the people who reserve engineered the protocol for this thing back in 2018-2019. I also did all the work people base Balboa spas on. I am working on proxies that de-cloud things now to make some of this easier....I started working on IP networks in 1992. I have worked on networks and embed systems for some of the largest networking companies and even governments. So I have some experience...it my point.

You couldn't pay me to put this on zigbee or any of these newer technologies.

I have 270 IP devices in my house and never ever have I had a single issue. I ripped out all my Zigbee, thread, matter and other nonsense because of just how unreliable they are, how frustrating they are, and how hard to mange them. The only thing I left in was z-wave because some of the inexpensive sensors work well on z-wave, and shades.

On top of the lack of hardenedness of any of these other methods, this the requirement for IPv6 is unacceptable to me from a security perspective. This may change overtime, but I just don't want to deal with it and the holes I need to put in my firewall are unacceptable. I let NOTHING on my IoT network get to the internet and strip most of the communications from other devices with proxies. The support for ipv6 is just not there, not is it as easy because the stacks are not there yet. And who cares anyway ipv4 works fine at home even at my scale.

Sometimes what works works for a reason and what is new just isn't all that awesome.

But that said, by all means push the envelope here, just don't be shocked when it sucks...

[Gabba35]

Thank you for the very detailed reply, looking into it further, seems like it would be a wate of time for the outcome and it my limit the amount of control I have to the split system.

[Gabba35]

Unrelated to my last comment... Anyone had issues with metal shielding and wifi?

There's a spot to put a wifi module but it requires a long cable bending through several places. The c6 nano you have is on a short cable.

In my split system, there's a plastic cover that has metal plating around the circuit board where the CN105 connector goes.

Has metal surroundings lead to wifi issues for anyone?

I've got it working on a test ESP32 larger sized board but need to figure out a plan to put it in permanently in my 5 split systems.

[disruptivepatternmaterial]

You should put it outside the metal, it will have a very hard time working otherwise.

[Gabba35]

Totally agree.
@DarkDimius, is yours behind metal? Cable looks very short. Any issues?

[DarkDimius]

Sorry for long time to reply, I'm starting a new job and an not at home to make a photo unfortunately.

If I remember right, In my AC heads, the CN105 connector is in a location that is covered with a plastic cover that might be metal plated(i did not check.). I did not try to put it behind that cover, instead i used an pre-existing cutout in that cover to thread cable through and hide c6nano behind a plastic piece to make putting assembling AC case back easier. The cables I used were just barely long enough to go through that hole and hide the c6nano behind a nook.

Note that mine currently run over thread, not over wifi.

Before that, I had AtomS3s in same locations running over wifi for a year and saw no issues with them ither

[Motya-HA]

I am trying to understand how difficult it would be to convert the code from the current NanoC6 to the ESP32 Ethernet Unit with PoE. This change would address two issues: power delivery and WiFi instability.

https://docs.m5stack.com/en/unit/poesp32

Another question for @DarkDimius — since you don’t use a logic-level adapter (which can be an additional headache to implement), have you ever noticed any issues?

[DarkDimius]

I haven't noticed any issues since I started running 4 AC heads with c6nanos since mid June.
There were no networking errors, logic errors or any other errors. Every uptime reset i had i was able to track to either me triggering esphome version update or me disabling power on a breaker.

[Motya-HA]

@DarkDimius Thank you so much for your reply.
Did you have a chance to look at my other question (to the community) about ESP32 Ethernet Unit with PoE?
I am planning 4 PEAD Mitsubishi in-door ducted units and they will be in attic, so I may have an issues with WiFi coverage

Thanks in advance

[TerryFrench]

@DarkDimius Thank you so much for your reply. Did you have a chance to look at my other question (to the community) about ESP32 Ethernet Unit with PoE? I am planning 4 PEAD Mitsubishi in-door ducted units and they will be in attic, so I may have an issues with WiFi coverage

Thanks in advance

I used the old code (esphome-mitsubishiheatpump) on a 8266 that I will update.
The PoE part is irrelevant in that there is no programming to do for it. Plug it to a PoE (lowest level is enough) Ethernet cable and the ESP32 will be powered.
The only changes should be in the esphome config yaml where instead of a wifi: section you will have something else. (the device itself is a different name/number). EspHome might pre-create a pretty good yaml for you (it's been a long time).

My recommendation: try a free chatgpt, gemini or other, feed it the content of the old (wifi) file, tell it the exact model you have now and to make the changes for you. It should print out the yaml file you can use (do the "Validate" check in esphome before any flashing attempts)

[pixelgrb]

Thank you so much for posting this @DarkDimius. This is the guide I started with, and so many people in this project and thread helped me get there to a working system.

I have some tips to share:

Wall mounted control plus HA integration

Note: There are other ways to do this (example).

I have a ducted unit (an SEZ-KD18NA4) and a must for me was to have a standard wall mounted control and HA integration. I don't want anything in my house to rely on HA for it to at least be functional. This is what I did ...

My system had a Mitsubishi MHK1 remote control, which comes in two parts: a battery powered remote and a receiver that connects to the heat pump's CN105 port. Note: while the interface to that remote is terrible, it does allow daily/weekly schedules to be programmed. I removed this device from my system and replaced it with the NanoC6 / ESP device .. which takes over that CN105 port.

On some units like mine, there is another interface with a terminal block labeled TB6 or TB15. It's a little confusing because that port can also be used to chain together multiple heat pumps. This is just a 2 wire connection that provides both power and signaling, with no polarity so it's very simple to wire.

All I did was purchase a PAR-40MAA, which can be found on ebay (I got one for $112 USD). You can also get a PAR-41MAA (I don't think there is a functional difference, but I'm not sure). Wire that to the TB6/15 port and everything just works. When you control the system from HA or the PAR-40MAA, the other one updates and reflects the change. The PAR-40MAA has a thermistor which is then used (as opposed to the heat pumps internal thermistor). You do lose scheduling features - there are no nighttime/daytime/weekday/weekend settings with the PAR-40MAA. But .. that's the point. HA does the smarts.

3D Printed Magnetic Mount for the NanoC6

I made this. Not necessary, but a nice touch: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1981870-m5stack-nanoc6-magnetic-mount

---

[OleSam85]

Thanks so much for this guide... I just set this up on my mini split (I have the MSZ-FH06NA indoor unit with a MUZ-FH06NA outdoor unit) and it's working great!

I was using the PAC-USWHS002-WF-2 wireless interface (for Kumo Cloud, now renamed to Mitsubishi Comfort). I wasn't ready to remove this box, so I connected the NanoC6 to the extra 5 pin connector on the Wi-Fi module intended for the MHK remote controller (assuming this is a full pass-through). I can now control the system through either ESPHome device or with the Comfort app and the other system will update itself accordingly.

On my unit I did notice the sub mode, auto mode, and compressor frequency sensors didn't work, and I did add in the outdoor temp sensor since that is working on my unit. I don't use OpenThread in HA (instead have an Apple TV as my border router) so it took me a little bit of experimenting to find the TLV, but I eventually managed to find it buried in a config file. Still not sure if I'll remove the existing WiFi module but so far the local control has been perfect! Remote temp sensor may be my next addition...

[OleSam85]

Anyone running thread successfully update to ESPHome 2025.11 yet?

[toddself]

I'm on the latest version of esphome and just got this working using this setup. I ended up having to do the version: 5.4.0 thing to get it to connect properly though

[capickett]

I am running this now on the latest ESPHome. The main change needed here is to enable the internal pull-up resistor for uart rx as mentioned here #396 (comment)

uart:
  id: HP_UART
  baud_rate: 2400
  tx_pin: GPIO1
  rx_pin:
    number: GPIO2
    mode: 
      pullup: true
      input: true

@OleSam85

[OleSam85]

Thanks I actually updated to 2025.12.5 a couple days ago (after it became unresponsive, possibly due to the issue mentioned above) and it's been working fine, but maybe the unresponsiveness was due to the lack of the internal pull-up... I've since added that to my config and will reflash soon. Next thing is figuring out why my remote temp sensor isn't working (and how to confirm if it is working in the first place).

[phaxe82]

I just wanted to say thanks! My Mitsu split both upstairs and downstairs are now happily living on thread, and are accessible via HA and Apple Home. Happy days!

[NZ3-14]

Wondering if anyone has moved to Home Assistant Operating System 17.0 and has had any issues with this wonderful ESPHome Config?

Thanks!

[rudizl]

No problems here from day one of OS17 roll out.

[jmooradi]

Has anyone gotten this to successfully work with a PEAD unit? I bought a couple NanoC6 and I've been attaching them to the various Mitsubishi units around my place. One room has a MLZ-KY06NA that connected and works great but the same YAML config on a second NanoC6 installed on a PEADA18AA8 is not able to do the initial handshake.

[08:42:04.406][I][CN105_CONN:048]: Reinitializing UART and trying to connect again...
[08:42:04.414][I][CN105:364]: Forcing low-level UART reinit on port 0 (tx=1, rx=2)
[08:42:04.457][I][CN105:009]: setupUART() with baudrate 2400
[08:42:04.469][I][CN105_CONN:268]: setupUART(): baud=2400 tx=1 rx=2 (UART port=0)
[08:42:04.568][I][CN105_CONN:278]: UART configuré en SERIAL_8E1
[08:42:04.621][I][CN105_CONN:026]: Envoi du paquet de connexion en mode Standard (0x5A)...
[08:42:14.367][E][CN105_CONN:040]: --> Heatpump did not reply: NOT CONNECTED <--

[rarshonsky]

I was able to get this working with a nearly identical config. I am however having issue with random disconnects. Has anyone run into this issue:

DEBUG (MainThread) [aioesphomeapi.connection] Cleaning up connection to m5nanoc6-office-hvac @ 192.168.5.204 (error: [Errno 104] Connection reset by peer)

This still occurs even with a static ip set and roaming disabled on the network.

[bpinto]

Is anyone experiencing any electrical noise? I have one that has a very low sound but the other two make a much louder noise. The noise is constantly in the background. I am yet to put the enclosure back on, but wondering if anyone had had any similar problem and how they have solved it.

[BHSPitMonkey]

The only faint whine I've been able to notice in quiet environments is from the stepper motors driving the vanes when they're in motion. I've not been able to hear my AtomS3 Lite boards at all.

[NZ3-14]

Wondering if anyone has moved to ESPHome 2026.7.0 - July 2026 and has had any issues with this wonderful ESPHome Config?

[dhumeniuk]

Thanks for this guide. Just setting up mine today. Have the living room mini split working and doing the same for the bedroom. This is my first time using EspHome or any of the compatible microcontrollers.