1. 3D printing

1. Slicing

• You can find the STLs here or within the stl/ directory, I would prefer you download from Printables.com though. You can slice them in whatever preferred slicer you use, I use PrusaSlicer.
  

• For all STLs/3mfs APART from enclosure.stl you can print them without supports, there was no escaping it but you will need to paint on some supports at the port void as seen here:

• For settings, I printed them all at 0.2mm layer height with a 0.4mm brass nozzle, in PLA with 10% infill on a Prusa MK4S.

These prints were made with the calibration of MY MK4S, yours may produce worse/better results so I would print keyplate.stl and pico_plate.stl files and check fitment with them and scale +-1% on the remaining parts to ensure a good fit.

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1.1 Embossing Text

• For the Keycaps, I have included a single, non-customised version. As I don't know what you will want to assign each key I thought this would be best, you can use your slicer's negative volume feature to create shapes or add text to the underside of the keycap depending on your preference.

• To use this feature (provided your slicer is based on PrusaSlicer), Right-click on your desired keycap, then Hover over "add negative volume" and select your shape/text. The font used on the rest of the STLs I have provided are using the Power Red And Green font if you want to match them :)

• You should then have a result that looks like this:

• You can then add whatever embossing you like

• Set these to print with your desired angled spacer (I.e., 10.3, 20.8 or 30 degree)

You may get a warning about bed adhesion problems, you should be able to ignore this unless your print bed is scratched or have problems with bed adhesion anyway

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1.3 Completed prints

• With everything printed, it should all look something like this (depending on which spacer(s) you printed)

• Now it's onto soldering
• Or back to Home