Getting Started

If you've just received a Remora1 and do not know what to do next - read on ...

IMPORTANT

As of July 2024 the bootloader and firmware binaries are built and distributed by ESCape32 on their git releases page. We strongly recommend you ensure the latest firmware is installed on your device. It will maximize its performance and obviates the need to try different builds, because everything is now a settable parameter. We have removed these from our own repo and stopped distributing them ourselves.

What's in the Box?

There are a couple of different parts to the Remora1. They are:

The Remora1 eCom.
The WiFi Link, with its adapter and cable.
A 3D printed enclosure for the WiFi link.
A small crocodile clip.
A 3D printed board carrier.

Powering On the Remora1

If you are already familiar with brushless motors and slot cars then the Remora1 is no different from what you already know - connect it and use it. It's that simple.

The Remora1 works out-of-the-box. Solder a couple of wires on its input power pads and connect a motor to the output phase pads, and as the voltage rises above about 1.2V the motor will run up to its maximum rpm for the applied voltage.

Connecting the Lead Wires

If you position the power pads on the underside of the board facing down, the plus, positive pad is on the right hand side where you'll conventionally connect it to the guide.

Since the lead wires end up on the bottom you'd be well advised to connect them to the board before you position it on a chassis.

If by accident you connect the negative to positive and vice versa, the board will not run. You will NOT cause any damage to it, because it's protected.

Attaching the Remora1 to a Chassis

The board is small enough to fit conveniently in a chassis. We have 3D-printed board carriers into which the board snaps in, that can be attached to the chassis. Another good way to attach the board is to use double sided thermal tape. This is thin and light and if you are running a steel chassis, the chassis can act as a heat sink for the Remora1. This is the UK Amazon link, and the US Amazon link.

Connecting a Motor

Before attaching the three motor phase wires you might want to use a couple of leads with crocodile clips on each end to rig the wires to the pads to ensure the motor rotates in the correct direction. You'll notice the board has the characters "U", "V" and "W" printed next to a pad. These indicate the corresponding motor phase that the pad drives. For a lot of motors you'll find the wires are lined up in this order.

There is a fifty/fifty chance that you'll connect the motor so that it spins in the desired anti-clockwise direction, to move the car forward. If the motor runs in the opposite direction either: reverse two motor wires, or change the motor's direction in the settings.

You'll notice that the motor phase soldering pads are drilled to accept connectors to help you if you'd like to use them. So, instead of soldering wires to the power pads you could solder on connectors. If you choose to do this, make sure the connectors you choose have appropriate mechanical and electrical properties. Note: the board itself is capable of carrying up to 18V, and current of 18amps - for a short duration. Slot car motors are capable of drawing a lot of current especially when they start especially if they do not synchronize.

Soldering is a better solution because it's electrically and mechanically sound. And in an accident there is, if you've done it right less chance of a connector coming loose.

Connecting a High K_v Motor

Motors up to 22,000K_v will work without any changes to the Remora1. However, when you first connect a motor, DO NOT immediately apply full power. Work up to doing this until you know the motor will successfully synchronize on start. If a motor "cogs" or stutters when it starts, or this happens after it's running - STOP APPLYING POWER IMMEDIATELY and try increasing the timing. Very high K_v (say 22,000K_v and above) motors are hard to start because they generate a very low back emf (BEMF). The BEMF is used to synchronize and start a motor, and if this value is low it's hard to measure and difficult to start a motor. The greater a motor's K_v the greater the number of revolutions needed to generate a volt of electricity.

If you continue to power the motor when it's stuttering both the motor and eCom will get hot, because the motor will draw a huge amount of current and you run the risk of burning out not only the motor, but also the eCom.