Skip to content

Plumbing

Stubb edited this page Jun 13, 2026 · 6 revisions

Fuel

  • Sender: 25" from tank fitting to bottom of tank. Tank is 28" high.

Fresh water

  • Tankage: dual Plastimo bladder tanks — 50 gal + 25 gal (75 gal total). The 25 gal acts as the "low water" warning when we divert to it.
  • T-port diverter: DERNORD 304SS T-port ball valve with 3 × 1/2" NPT-to-barb adapters, used to cross-fill the dual tanks. T over L because L-port can't connect tank-to-tank; T-port can.
  • Tank union installed 2026-03
  • Old water pump removed; wires repurposed for B&G power
  • Old water tank: still installed, to be pulled and stored with spares
  • Pump: brand new (installed during refit) — model ❓

Plastimo cold-weather note

Plastimo bladder tank cap O-rings can fail after sub-freezing temperatures (rubber stiffens, loses elasticity). Symptoms: caps leak no matter how tight after refill. Fix: replace O-rings with new Buna-N or EPDM, apply silicone grease, warm parts to ambient before reseating. Cost: ~$2–5 in O-rings.

  • Accumulator tank: SEAFLO SFAT-075-125-01 (0.75L / 23.5 oz bladder, 125 psi max, 1/2" MNPT ports). Installed inline on pump outlet. Pre-charge set ~3 psi below pump cut-in (typically 22 psi for 25/40 psi pump).

Rainwater catchment

  • Diverter: Jabsco 45490-1000 Y-valve (food-safe — polypropylene + stainless). Used once in waste service then dead pump; cleaned with vinegar soak + dilute bleach rinse before drinking-water service.
  • Catchment route: scupper diverter defaults to overboard; manual switch to tank fill after pre-rain line flush.
  • Pre-tank filter: Pentek 158196 #10 slim line housing (1/2" ports) with Pentek R50 washable 50µ cartridge. Mounted on tank outlet before pump.

Drinking water

  • Post-tank polish: Frizzlife SW10 compact single-stage (NSF 42/53) on the drinking fountain only.
  • UV sterilization: HQUA-OWS-6 25W 120V inline, 1/2" MNPT inlet/outlet. Flow-controlled, wired to run with pump. Comes with 2 lamps (1 installed, 1 spare). Replace every ~9,000 hours.

Galley sink (rebuild pending)

  • New sink — a couple of brand new sinks from a previous project may fit; otherwise need to source one
  • Add p-trap
  • Remove dead seawater pump
  • Dual faucets: washing w/ mixer + dedicated drinking
  • Aerator on washing faucet

Shower

  • "Jimmy Shower" setup — see Jimmy-Shower for the technical reference (parts, wiring, operating sequence, performance numbers). Blog post covers the why.
  • Aerator on shower head pending

Waste

  • Electroscan macerator with dedicated 12V WattCycle battery (see Electrical). No holding tank — Electroscan treats and discharges directly.
  • Salt-tank overflow drains into the general sump pump (shared with shower drain and HVAC condensate — see HVAC).

Through-hulls / Seacocks

The 2017 survey identified 6 plastic through-hulls below the waterline needing replacement (UV-degraded). Since then: one added for AC, one removed — final count is unverified. Build the seacock list incrementally as each is inspected/serviced. Likely candidates:

  • Engine raw water intake (Groco strainer is the post-seacock filter)
  • Galley sink drain
  • Head intake
  • Electroscan discharge (treated effluent — see Waste, above)
  • Shower drain
  • AC intake (added during refit — see HVAC)
  • Diesel parking heater exhaust — starboard, behind galley bulkhead, above waterline (see HVAC)

TODO: location, size, last service for each.

Raw water

  • Groco strainer (engine intake)

Bilge pumps

  • 1 manual bilge pump (model ❓)
  • 2 automatic Rule bilge pumps (capacity ❓)

Clone this wiki locally