Repository navigation
User Manual Modes
A mode is what the device shows you. Choose one from the menu: hold → MODE → swipe →
tap. It applies immediately and the choice survives a power cycle.
The order runs from "going out on track" to "finding out what is wrong".
| Mode | Shows |
|---|---|
| TRACK DAY | Session countdown. Laps recorded, not displayed |
| RACE | Lap times, delta and session remaining |
| G-ONLY | Cornering and braking forces, as a radar display |
| SPEED | Road speed in mph, very large |
| COMPASS | Direction of travel on a compass card |
| 0-X | Time from a standing start to a target speed |
| GPS ONLY | Receiver diagnosis — speed, position, fix data |
| CLOCK | A 24-hour GMT clock |
A session countdown and nothing else. Lap times are withheld on purpose.
Many track days run under regulations that prohibit timing on circuit, so this mode exists to comply with them. Laps are still recorded and are available in Review once the session has ended — you simply cannot see them while out.
This is the safe default.
Lap times, a delta against your best, and session remaining.
Cornering, braking and acceleration forces on a radar-style display, with your current reading and the peak held. The whole panel, no session timer — a timer here would invite using the mode to time something, which is the one thing it is not for.
Road speed in mph, filling the panel.
The number is centred whatever its width, so it never drifts off to one side. It repositions as it crosses 9 to 10 and 99 to 100, and that is the only time it moves.
-
Standing still reads
0. That is a real speed, and the mode says so. -
---means it cannot tell you — either no receiver or no fix. The line at the top right says which.
Those two are never confused, because a stationary car and a dead receiver both have a speed of zero and you need to know which one you have.
A fixed card with north at the top, a marker travelling its rim, and the bearing in degrees at the centre with its compass point beneath.
It shows the direction you are travelling, not the direction you are facing. There is no magnetic sensor in this device. The two are the same in a moving car and part company completely when it stops.
So when you are parked, or barely moving, the marker disappears and the degrees read
--- under a NO HEADING label. That is correct behaviour, not a fault: a parked car has
no heading at all. The alternative — leaving the marker where it last was — would look
exactly like a working compass while being completely wrong.
NO HEADING is deliberately not NO FIX. The fix is usually perfect; it is the movement
that is missing.
Times a run from a standing start to a target speed - the classic 0-60, and whatever else you set it to.
The clock counts up from 0.00 as you accelerate, stops the instant the target is
reached, and turns green. The number beneath it says what it is timing to: 0-60 MPH.
Setting the target. Hold -> SETUP -> 0-X TARGET, then pick from 30, 40, 50, 60,
70 or 100 mph. The choice is saved and survives a power cycle.
Resetting. Two ways, and the first needs no thought:
- Come back to a stop and it re-arms itself. Roll to a halt and it is ready for the next run.
- Tap the screen to reset immediately, whatever it is showing.
| It shows | Meaning |
|---|---|
0.00 and READY
|
Stationary and waiting. The zero is real - you have not moved |
| a climbing number and RUN | Timing |
| a frozen number in green, DONE | The target was reached. This is the result |
| a frozen number in red, LOST FIX | The receiver stopped reporting mid-run. Not a result |
--.-- |
No receiver, no fix, or a receiver too unsure of its speed to measure with |
LOST FIX is the one to understand. If the receiver drops out mid-run the number simply stops climbing - which looks exactly like arriving at the target. So a run that lost its fixes is marked and is never green. Green means finished, and only that.
Likewise NO SPEED: the fix is fine and the device knows where it is, but the receiver is
not confident enough about how fast you are going to measure against. A number produced
then would be a reading of the receiver's uncertainty, not of the car.
Better than the fix rate suggests. The receiver reports 25 times a second, so a naive timer would be rounded to the nearest 40 ms. Instead both ends are worked out between readings: the start by extrapolating back to where your speed would have been zero, the finish by interpolating between the two readings either side of the target.
That is why the second decimal is worth showing. It is still a GNSS measurement, not a drag strip - treat it as good to a few hundredths, and compare runs with each other rather than against somebody else's timing gear.
Note that it measures from a true standing start, with no rollout allowance. Drag strip times are measured differently and will read quicker.
The diagnostic view: road speed large, with ten rows underneath — fix type, satellites, latitude, longitude, altitude, heading, accuracy, rate and dropped fixes.
Reach for this when something is wrong, or to watch the receiver acquire from cold. It distinguishes no receiver from a receiver that has not fixed yet, which are different problems: one is a cable, the other is patience.
A 24-hour clock from the satellite time signal — accurate to well under a second and needing no setting.
It reads GMT all year. From late March to late October it will be an hour behind every
other clock in the country. That is correct, and the GMT label on screen is there so it is
never mistaken for a fault. There is no timezone setting yet.
If the receiver goes quiet the clock keeps running on its own crystal, marked HOLD with
how long it has been doing so. After an hour it stops claiming to know the time at all,
because by then it is no longer showing satellite time.